My Florence Address Book + Syliva

Sylvia in the backroom of Gilli Caffe Florence - Carla Coulson Italian Joy

 Sylvia in Gilli Caffe Florence - Copyright Carla Coulson

Syliva in her office Florence (not bad hey?) - Copyright Carla Coulson Italian Joy

I met the marvellous Sylvia on holidays a year before I moved to Italy. Fiftee years ago I was in the zany restaurant Garga with a good friend. The waiter decided that 'all the beautiful girls' were going to sit together that night. Sylvia wore a flowing caftan and was draped in jewels. I thought she was the most elegant woman on earth. What started out as a night of sign language ended in the beginnings of a wonderful friendship.

When I moved to Florence in 2000 and I had learnt a little Italian I called the divine Sylvia Matteoli.. Sylvia became my dear friend and 'translator' of all things Italian. I stayed 4 years and we roamed the streets, the bars, the shops, restaurants and cafes of Florence together.

Here are some of our favourite addresses where to eat drink and be merry in Florence:

For old world Florence and a great coffee and brioche at the bar try

Gilli Caffe

Via Roma 1/R,

50123 Florence

Some of the best pastries and sweets in Florence. My darling dreams of the Sfoglia alla Crema and I try to bring one back to Paris each time I visit..Hard to resist it on the plane. Great coffee at the bar..Sitting down will cost you a fortune.

Paskowski

Piazza della Repubblica

Florence

Best hot chocolate in Florence and delicious pastries. Costs a couple of euros if you drink and eat at the bar in one of Florence's exquisite historical caffes..

Rivoire

Piazza della Signoria

Florence

A hole in the wall 'panino' shop that is a cult address for locals. The two brothers make your sandwich on the spot to order from local products and you can stand eating it in the street with your wine glass propped up on their stand. 

I Due Fratellini

Via dei Cimatori 38/r,

Florence

Located in the small piazza della passera in Oltrarno Quattro Leone is a good solid trattoria where we have had many a great night. I love the fiocchetti with pear and cream

Trattoria 4 Leone

Via dei Vellutini, 1r

Florence

Old school trattoria serving classic Tuscan cuisine. Men in grey jackets, no email, no website. Old school in every sense. I have always eaten well here and found the staff delightful.

Sostanza

Via Porcellana, 25/r

Florence

What every girl needs in her life a Mozzarella bar. Housed in a historic building Obika does mozzarella in every possible way, smoked, roasted, fresh, splendid etc. Great for a girls lunch.

Obika

via de' Tuornabuoni 16

Florence

Although this place started life as a wine bar I have passed many a lunch here in this simple style trattoria. Delightful staff and great in winter downstairs. Mini wine bar upstairs or grab a glass and sit on the street.. Love the owner!!

Fiaschetteria Nuvoli

Piazza del'Olio

Florence

Great around 6pm for a glass of champagne and a mini truffle panino. Procacci is a historic truffle bar and has a refined decor. Makes me feel like a Signora sitting at one of the little tables sipping champagne.

Procacci

Via Tornabuoni, 64/r
50123 Firenze

Delicious Tuscan food in a convivial atmosphere. A little more expensive than your classic trattoria. Last time I had taglietelle with truffles. I thought I would pass out..

La Giostra

Borgo Pinti, 12/r

Florence

Best gelato in Florence.. Unfortunately no cones but delicious all the same.

Vivoli

Via dell'Isola delle stinche, 7r

Florence

Well that should get you started on your next trip to Florence. I hope you enjoy hanging out and eating in some of my favourite places.. 

Food = Love

Carla x

If you love Florence and Italy you might like to read Under the Tuscan Sun and Living in a Foreign Language , The Promise and Death in the Mountains. Of course you would probably lurve Italian Joy

Taken on my Leica M7

Shot on Tri-x 400 film

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